Best Irish Coffee: O'Brien's

    In Kyiv, we might not be havinÕ any controversies about weader gays can march in de St. PaddyÕs Day parade, but dat doesnÕt mean we canÕt enjoy a wee jolt of Irish coffee every once in a while. Wit de 17th rapidly approachinÕ, we decided it was time find out which restaurant knows de right way to warm any leprechaunÕs stomach.

For dose not in de know, Irish Coffee is a deceptively simple drink. All it takes is a shot of Irish whiskey, some strong coffee and sugar, topped with a generous helpinÕ of whipped cream. Connoisseurs know not to mix de cream with de body of the drink; de coffee is enjoyed most when itÕs sipped trough the layer of cream.

Our search made us realize, dereÕs very few joints in Kyiv where ye can warm up over a goblet of coffee done right. And, still worse, most of dem look like pubs for dose damn English folk, and not de sons of Ireland.

Take John Bull Pub. Deir Irish Coffee (Hr 25) was on de whole done right, but dey tried to pass off some canned whipped cream as a substitute for de real ting dat some lass rung out from her dear old Bessy. DatÕs not de real crack, dat.

OÕer at de Wall, dey do de same ting, altough itÕs a wee bit cheaper (Hr 18). Tom might talk with de right accent, but he donÕt know Irish Coffee from Nescafe if heÕs seriously tinking dat de miracle whip canned cream can compete wit anyting from a farm. And datÕs not all. Dey didnÕt stir de coffee before addinÕ de cream, so de sugar was clumped at de bottom.

Den, we got to tinkinÕ, dat maybe Kaffa could offer someding fresh to de joy of Irish Coffee. DeyÕre servinÕ fresh cream wit deir coffee, at least. But, on de menu, dere wasnÕt a ting, Ôcept some strange type of coffee called Irish Whiskey (Hr 9.60). Well, we ordered it, but it wasnÕt Irish, and it sure wasnÕt whiskey. Truth be told, twas a fine cup of coffee, but it wasnÕt de real crack.

DisparinÕ, tinkinÕ dat dereÕs no good Irish Coffee in Kyiv, we decided to give de only Irish Pub in Kyiv a try. It was like de crock of gold at de end of de rainbow. It was like our shamrock was finally bringinÕ us some luck. DatÕs right, at OÕBrienÕs, de only true pub in dis city, dey know how to make a proper Irish Coffee (Hr 18.90).

De coffee's strong, dey gently stir up de Cutty Sark wit de coffee and sugar, and de whipped cream comes from a cow, not any can. It warms yer insides and tastes just like dey do it in Dublin. One cup, and ye want anoder. And dat ainÕt no blarney. Begorra.

O'Brien's Irish Pub 17a Mykhailivska. Tel: 229-1584. Irish Coffee costs Hr 18.90.

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