Best in Kyiv

Kyiv's best machos: Time Out

Scott Lewis
They may skimp on the chips, but Time Out's nachos taste the best.

Spring is the Best Of team's favorite time of year. The days are getting longer. The chestnut trees are in bloom. And, most importantly, Cinco de Mayo is just around the corner.

As the Ukrainian government will take any excuse to call a national holiday, so will the Best Of team take any excuse to party. Ask us como esta en Cinco de Mayo, and our answer comes back straight and to the point: muy barracho.

But we can't survive on cervezas and Tequila slammers alone on May 5. Mexican food is also essential. While far from the being the most original Mexican dish, nachos are certainly the most ubiquitous, at least in Kyiv.

One would think that Tequila House, as the closest think Kyiv has to an authentic Mexican restaurant, would have the most authentic nachos. Think again, amigo. Tequila House makes a pretty good stab at it with their Nachos Negro Grande, but they aren't the best. For Hr 25, you get a large plate of red, yellow and blue tortilla chips covered with melted cheese, black beans, a lump of sour cream and salsa. But we were a bit turned off by the smoked pork - no substitute for chicken or beef - the miniscule portion of salsa, and the sacrilegious absence of guacamole.

Arizona BBQ has run-of-the mill nachos plate (Hr 39) that would satisfy the most chronic case of munchies. Their version consists of a heaping pile of chips slathered recklessly with all the requisite fixings, namely melted cheese, beans, sour cream, olives and guacamole. Arizona layers the toppings on their nachos, as well, unlike some other places that put toppings only on the top. That means there are plenty of cheese and tomatoes left at the bottom of your plate.

But while there's nothing really wrong with Arizona's nachos, there's nothing particularly special about them either. And you don't get credit for making simply "good" nachos, because let's face it, nachos are impossible to screw up as long as you stay away from the Velveeta.

Time Out one-ups the competition with a nachos platter that, if not "great," is at least Kyiv's most unique platter. The name of the dish alone wreaks of individuality: Smoked Chicken Nachos with Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa. Repeat: Smoked Chicken Nachos with Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa. With a name like that, how can they not be good?

These little devils have one thing going for them that the others don't: They're hot and spicy. To us, that makes all the difference in the world. They're also layered nicely with melted cheddar, sour cream and refried beans.

Unfortunately, Time Out's nachos are far from being the best value. They cost a hefty Hr 57. Not only that, they scrimp you on the chips.

Nevertheless, the piles of salsa, guacamole and spicy smoked chicken make up for the minor deficiencies. The salsa is terrific, even though we were perplexed as to where they procured fresh tomatillos in Ukraine. Muy bien!